The block-printing method — also widely known as batik cap — is, until today, the primary technique utilised by the dwindling number of batik artisans in Terengganu who are our main collaborators.
The process involves repetitive application of melted wax onto fabric in desired patterns using metal stamp. The waxed areas resist the dye during the dye-ing process, creating layers of colours.
The wax is removed by boiling the waxed fabric, revealing intricate designs where the fabric remains undyed. This process can be repeated with multiple layers of wax and dye to achieve complex designs and vibrant colours.
A spiky plant found in Malaysian jungles and coastal areas, mengkuang is traditionally used to create mats, baskets, and other ornamental objects.
The craft consists various roles that are usually undertaken by different groups within the same region. The process started from the harvesters, who would harvest and process the leaves into long and even strips - which involves several steps including (i) removal of thorns; (ii) smoking over hot coal and thumping with a blunt pole to soften; (iii) cutting into even strips using a tool called jangka; (iv) soaking in water for two nights for discolouration; and (v) drying.
The processed/treated mengkuang strands are then personally hand-dyed by Khadijah Yong, the founder of HKY Collections. After these labourious processes, the dyed strands are meticulously woven by the skilled women weavers across Terengganu. The state has long been regarded as the home to one of the finest mengkuang-weaving in the country.